Riding, Rivers and Mount Kenya Views at Sosian Lodge

Table of Contents

Laikipia’s high country opens wide at Sosian Lodge. A restored ranch where cattle and wildlife share the same horizon. Morning light finds the veranda cool and quiet. Horses step out across open plains and riverine forest with Mount Kenya on the skyline. On the Ewaso Narok, waterfalls feed deep pools for wild swims and unhurried paddles. Night brings clear stars and the low crackle of a fire.

 

Guests around a campfire under a clear Laikipia sky at Sosian Lodge
Firelight and first stars over the camp. Photo Credit: Sosian Lodge

Sosian Lodge moves at an easy rhythm. Guides shape each day to your pace and ability. Families find their stride between ponies, picnics, and tennis. The welcome is homely, and the landscape is generous. You come for riding and river days. You stay for space, simplicity, and a story of land restored.

 

At a Glance

Location Laikipia Kenya on a 24,000-acre private ranch and wildlife conservancy with 15 km of the Ewaso Narok River and 30 foot waterfalls. Access via a scheduled flight to Nanyuki and a road transfer

Focus Riding river days conservation and homely hospitality

Highlights Horseback safaris, sunrise and sunset game drives, walking safaris and birding. Fly camping under the stars, wild swims and kayaking. Seasonal tubing and rock top sundowners

Perfect for Riding enthusiasts, couples, families and private groups seeking space adventure and an unhurried pace

Style Veranda wrapped historic ranch house with pool gardens bar and billiards. Simple elegant cottage rooms

Rates From US$650 per adult per night full board with unlimited activities. Teen and child discounts available. Confirm current pricing

Retreat Website https://sosian.com/

Why We Love This Retreat
  • Ride first immersion across 24,000 acres with serious horses and options for beginners
  • River days with waterfalls, wild swims, kayaking and seasonal tubing
  • Homely ranch house with veranda mornings, picnic lunches and candlelit dinners
  • Land restored since 1999 with portable night bomas, ranger teams and community projects
  • Endangered species present including wild dogs, reticulated giraffe and Grevys zebra
  • Family friendly by design with ponies arena and an interconnecting family cottage

From the Retreat

“The world is best viewed through the ears of a horse.” Sosian Lodge

Location and Sense of Place

Laikipia rises in slow hills and wide light. Sosian sits in the middle of it, on twenty four thousand acres stitched by the Ewaso Narok. The river runs for fifteen kilometres through riverine forest and rocky ledges. Waterfalls drop into pools and the air cools as evening arrives. Mount Kenya holds the far horizon, and the nights are star bright.

Veranda at Sosian Lodge with gardens and Laikipia bush beyond
Veranda shade and long views to river country. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Getting to the lodge seems and is simple. Fly to Nanyuki from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport. Drive on to the lodge through open country and acacia shade. When you step onto the veranda, you can hear the river and the garden birds, and the pace has already changed

 

Design and Atmosphere

The original ranch house anchors the lodge. A generous sitting room opens to a dining room, a bar, and a billiards room. A wide wrap-around veranda holds long views of garden and bush with the river country beyond. Lawns meet acacia shade and a calm pool for relief from the heat of the day. Evenings settle by the fire with candlelight and easy conversation. The mood stays homely and unpretentious. A place that works every day and welcomes you in the same breath.

Sosian Lodge sitting room with fireplace and armchairs
Firelit sitting room and a quiet place to gather. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Suites and Stays

The eight rooms sit within the Lodge’s gardens for space and quiet. Firstly, there is the Italian Cottage, which stands apart with its own small garden. A king bed and an airy bathroom make it a favourite for honeymooners and anyone who wants privacy.

Family Cottage interior with twin room at Sosian Lodge
Interconnecting rooms for easy family stays. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

The Family Cottage links a double and a triple, so parents and children sleep close. Each room has its own bathroom. One with a bath and one with a shower.

 

Sosian Lodge bathroom with natural light
Light bright bathroom with simple touches. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

The Garden cottages complete the set with a mix of doubles and twin rooms. Every room is en-suite with reliable power through the night.

 

Dining and Produce

Sosian cooks from the land. The kitchen garden grows salads and vegetables. Pigs are reared on the ranch and neighbouring farms supply excellent beef, chicken and lamb. Meals are seasonal and home cooked with generous flavour.

 

Outdoor dining setup at Sosian Lodge
Lunch in the shade with a view. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Breakfast can appear by the river or on the veranda. Lunch is often a picnic in the shade or by the pool. Dinner is three courses by candlelight. Dietary needs are met with care and children can dine early when sleep calls.

 

Experiences

Riding at Sosian Lodge
Kenya is the home of horseback safari and Sosian is a true lodge based riding destination. Rides cross twenty four thousand acres with Mount Kenya on the skyline. Terrain is varied with river crossings, sandy tracks and open country for canters and gallops among Elephant, Zebra, Oryx, Giraffe, Eland and Gazelle.

 

Riders stop for a quick moment to enjoy being so close to a magnificent  elephant.
Elephant spotting on horseback. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

The yard has about thirty well-schooled horses, including ponies for children. To ride out in the bush, you need solid experience and confidence at all paces in open country. Less experienced riders enjoy shorter hacks near the lodge and lessons in the sand arena. Typical rides run one to three hours in the morning and or afternoon. Keen riders can sleep out on a fly camp with the horses and return to the lodge the next day. Longer safaris of five to seven nights are available by arrangement.

 

Riders canter with zebra on open Laikipia plains.
Moving with zebra across short grass. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Game drives day and night
Open Land Cruisers with raised seats head out when wildlife is most active in the cool hours. Midday holds its own magic with elephants at the river, baboons on the rocks, and giraffes strolling through the savannah. Sightings are possibilities, not promises, and patience is often rewarded.


 

Lovely sighting of some beautiful giraffes. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Walking safaris and birding
Walk with experienced guides and read the small signs of the bush. Learn about the wild spoor, dung, insects, plants and birds that are found within this vast area of beauty. Distances and pace are tailored to you.

 

Guests on a guided walk across the bush at Sosian. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Fly camping
Sleep under a sky full of stars. Simple tents, bedrolls, a bucket shower and a fire to warm you up while having supper. Wake to river mist and fresh coffee before riding out.

 

Fly camp tents set on the northern plains at dusk.
A simple camp and a sky full of stars. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

River days
Sosian holds about fifteen kilometres of the Ewaso Narok with natural pools and thirty foot falls. Enjoy wild swims, gentle kayaking and seasonal tubing when water levels and safety allow. Unhurried fishing on the bank is another quiet pleasure to be had.

 

Waterfall and natural swimming pool on the Ewaso Narok.
Who doesn’t love a ledge jump into a natural pool. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Camel treks
Gentle and sure footed camels carry you for about forty minutes for a different view of the bush.

 

Mountain biking
Ride quiet tracks through open country. Stop to read tracks, plants, and insects along the way, not forgetting the amazing wildlife around.

 

Two wheels and quiet tracks through open country. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Cattle ranching
Spend a morning with the ranch team for dipping, branding and sorting. Learn how cattle and wildlife share grass, water and space on a modern Laikipia ranch.

 

Cultural traditions
With prior arrangement, you can visit many nearby manyattas to meet Samburu, Pokot and Turkana neighbours. These hosted visits offer respectful insight into nomadic life.

 

Tennis
A full size hard court sits close to the pool and bar for friendly matches between swims and siestas.

 

Guest playing tennis on the court at Sosian Lodge
Quick match in the afternoon sun: Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Conservation and Community

The Lodge is a working ranch and a wildlife conservancy in one landscape. The team calls it conservation beef. Careful grazing keeps the grass short and sweet so wild grazers follow. Old rank grass is knocked back by cattle, and the new growth brings Zebra, Eland, and Oryx. Since 1999, all internal fences have been removed so wildlife can move freely. Portable night bomas are rotated and the soil they leave behind greens up into seasonal hotspots. In the dry months, cattle are kept away from the Ewaso Narok, so Hippos, Buffalo and Elephants hold the river.

Boran cattle graze on Laikipia grassland as elephants move behind at Sosian Lodge.
Cattle graze the short grass as elephants pass in the distance. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge.
Quiet watch as elephants drink at the river
Two guests watching a herd of elephants drinking at a waterhole near Sosian Lodge

Predator conflict is tackled with secure steel panel bomas. Interlocking gates stop stampedes, and night losses to Lions have fallen by about ninety percent. The team works with Lion Landscapes to track prides. One lioness wears a GPS collar so livestock can be moved early and neighbours warned. Rangers protect elephants and other species. Support from For Rangers helps with training and equipment.

Guide and ranger showing guests fresh animal tracks near the river at Sosian
Learning the language of tracks with the ranger team. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Community work is part of daily life. Around one hundred and twenty people from neighbouring villages are employed across tourism, ranching, and security. A nearby primary school with about three hundred and thirty pupils receives classrooms, sanitation, kitchens, desks and teacher support. A local clinic receives funding and training for it to be as helpful as possible to the locals. Family planning outreach gives women real choice and builds long term resilience and empowerment.

Maternal and child health day at the local clinic supported by Sosian. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge.

Pastoral livelihoods matter here. The Community Cattle Trading Project buys cattle in dry times, finishes them on Sosian grass, and thus roughly injects two hundred and fifty thousand dollars a year back into the community. High-quality stud bulls are loaned out so herds improve and families earn more with fewer animals.

Sosian also runs a large Boran stud. About two thousand two hundred registered Boran cattle, with around six hundred eighty breeding cows and thirty stud bulls. The breed is hardy and well-suited to Laikipia. Attentive herding and regular dipping are part of the rhythm. The result is healthy rangeland and a landscape where people, cattle, and wildlife share the same horizon.

 

Registered Boran stud bull at the Ranch, Laikipia, with red-billed oxpeckers on its back standing in tall grass.
Registered Boran stud bull with oxpeckers in the Laikipia grasslands. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge.

People of Sosian

Sean, whose family has lived in Kenya for five generations, is one of the general managers. He studied in Kenya, Zimbabwe and the United Kingdom. He returned home to work on the land. Since 2006, he has overseen every part of Sosian’s 24,000-acre ranch and wildlife conservancy. He has built one of Kenya’s largest Boran cattle studs with more than 680 breeding cows. He is happiest on foot in the bush or fishing with his two young sons.

Two riders galloping across open bush at Sosian Lodge
Letting loose with two magnificent horses through the African bush. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Charlotte is the other general manager, who also joined the lodge in 2006. She built the lodge’s renowned horseback safaris and shaped the riding yard. In 2020 she moved into sales and marketing and now shares Sosian’s story with guests from around the world. She still helps match riders to horses and plans fly camps with the guiding team.

Riders ease into fly camp at golden hour
Riders ease into fly camp at golden hour. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

Both work with a strong local team. Guides, grooms, rangers, hosts, cooks, gardeners and drivers. About one hundred and twenty people keep the lodge working and welcoming every day.

Grooms and riders tacking up safari horses in the stable yard at Sosian Lodge, Laikipia, in warm morning light.
Morning light in the stable yard as grooms and riders tack up for a safari ride. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge.
When to Go

Laikipia works year-round with cool nights and wide, clear light. Dry months bring firm ground that suits long rides and nights out under the stars. Green months paint the hills fresh and swell the pools for wild swims and gentle kayaking. Activities always follow weather and river conditions for safety.

Getting There
  • Fly from Nairobi Wilson to Nanyuki then continue by road to the lodge
  • Private charters to nearby airstrips available on request
  • Soft sided luggage recommended and observe light aircraft limits
  • Exact transfer timings confirmed on booking
Good to Know
  • Children welcomed with ponies and a sand arena plus early suppers on request
  • To ride out in the bush, you need solid experience at all paces in open country. Beginners ride near the lodge or take lessons, helmets provided
  • Night drives available with guides
  • Fly camping is simple and rustic with bedrolls, a bucket shower, and a long drop loo
  • Wi Fi in main areas may vary with the weather
  • Same-day laundry is usually possible
  • Private buy-out available for families and groups
  • Activities and river use always follow conditions and safety
Final Thoughts

The lodge moves at a kind pace. Horses at first light and cool water by afternoon. Fire and stars when night comes. The house feels homely and the land feels generous because the work is real. You leave with dust on your boots and a quieter mind. Laikipia at its best.

Riders head home in last light with Mount Kenya on the horizon. Photo credit: Sosian Lodge

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